Although I went to the Argentine side of the falls back in December, I hadn’t visited the Brazilian side because of the expensive visa for Americans ($135?). But its a small price to pay to be in Rio de Janeiro for Carnival, and luckily I was passing through Foz do Iguazu on the way to Rio. I spent a few days waiting for the visa, explored the Brazilian side of the falls, read by the pool, got acclimated to the hot weather, and did some R & R.
Finally back in Argentina. And what is the first thing you think I’m going to do? If you said “eat steak” then you would be correct! My goodness, it had been almost 9 weeks (yes, I counted) since I had Argentine steak. And I was very pleased to introduce Michael to this marvelous dish. I was also sure to teach him the very important word anyone coming to Argentina should remember “jugozo” meaning “rare” which is how you simply must order your steak to get the most out of the flavor. Since I hadn’t yet been to Salta I didn’t know a place to go and, unfortunately, the first place we tried over cooked the meat, but the next day for lunch we had one of the best steaks I’ve had in Argentina.
Michael and I did a 3 day tour in the south of Bolivia known as “The Uyuni Tour” since that’s the city most people start in, or “The Salt Flats Tour” since that’s the main highlight of the tour. In an SUV with 2 other couples and a driver we did a loop through the south of Bolivia, stopping at many natural, fascinating attractions along the way.
Day 1
We got into Uyuni by train the night before, got a good night’s sleep, booked the tour in the morning, and set out at about 11am. First stop was a train cemetery where there are many retired trains to climb on. Next stop was a hotel/restaurant made of salt and full of statues all made of salt. Then we went to an island in the middle of the salt flats, which we climbed to the top of. Then we did all the optical illusion photos on the salt flats, had lunch, and walked around on the flats for a while.
I brought out a deck of cards before dinner and that night we all stayed up late playing a fun and apparently pretty well-known card game called President. Then again, maybe it was just fun for me ’cause I was winning so much
Day 2
We were warned well in advanced about the horrible roads on the second day, but boy they were bad. We even had to get out and walk for part of it.
And it was another late night playing President.
Day 3
I know the salt flats are the main part of this tour, but to me and Michael the glaciers where even more fascinating. I think they’re really one of the most interesting things I’ve ever seen. I got good photos and video, but I can’t even describe the strong, almost sickening, smell of sulfur coming deep out of the earth through the bubbling blue and orange pools all around us. It seemed straight out of a sci-fi movie. Then we relaxed/bathed in some natural hot springs and road around the dessert close to the boarder of Chile.
It all started when we somehow missed our bus from Potosi to Uyuni. But it turned our to be a blessing in disguise. Many people have told me not to take overnight buses in Bolivia because the road is so bad, but since we were short on time and there was no train from Potosi, we booked a bus ticket anyway. In the end, missing our bus did add an extra day to our trip, but the train ride was a lot of fun and well worth the extra time. So, we caught a bus back up to Oruro, and amazingly got one of the last seats on the train the next morning. Plenty of bear on the train, a nice dinner in the dinning car, a lovely smooth and scenic ride and a breathtaking sunset. I took a million pictures of the sunset, but after many attempts, I believe its impossible to capture the beauty of a sunset in a photo, even with my magnificent camera.
After parting with Cydney and Sarah in La Paz I took a very detoured ride (the bus broke down) to Potosi, the highest city in the world at 4090 meters, where I met up with Michael, a friend I did the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu with. The first thing we did was walk around the city center where there was a parade with local music, traditional costumes and dance, and the biggest water fight I’ve ever seen. It looked like everyone in town was there and everyone was soaked, throwing water balloons, and shooting water guns and foam. We learned quickly that the tourists were an especially hot target and we were getting pounded constantly by stinging, point-blank blasts. I like to think we got some good shots in ourselves, though.
The next day we went on a tour of the Cerro Rico Mines. Its an active mine and even though it was a holiday we still came across miners working away. 45000 tons of pure silver were mined from Cerro Rico from 1556 to 1783. There are 8 levels, we visited 3 of them, which was plenty because it got extremely hot and cramped crawling through the narrow passages. Its amazing that the miners work 12-13 hour shifts, 6 days a week, and some even start at 8 years of age. At the beginning of the tour we bout dynamite, some we gave to the miners and some we blew up at the end, which was awesome.
Getting the gear
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Dynamite!
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The Museum.
The Mountain.
Help! I\'m stuck!
Making the hole for the dynamite
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The group.
Making the dynamite.
Oh, and a random side note: Yes, I died my hair dark brown. I think these are the first photos of it. Cydney and Sarah were the masterminds and convinced me to do it. I was a little shocked at first, but am getting used to it and liking it more and more. Of course, Michael didn’t even notice. hehe.
Its the most dangerous ride in the world. 70 km (43.5 miles) from La Paz to Coroico, starting at about 4600 meters and descending to 1700. The most narrow part of the road is 3 meters wide, although a lot of it is wider. But the dangerous part is the 500 meter drop that you can look straight down most of the ride. 25 people have died on it in the last 30 years. Many people come to South America just for this ride and it had been at the top of my list for months. It wasn’t easy, but I was so glad I convinced my friend, Sarah, to do it with me. We went to 3 different shops around La Paz searching for a place that had bikes small enough for her and which she felt comfortable on.
Sarah, Cydney, and a group of friends from the hostel went on the famous San Pedro Prison tour. It was definitely an unforgettable experience. One of the most unique prison’s on the world. There are only adult male inmates, but their wives and children are allowed to move into the prison and live with them.
After the Jungle tour ended in Cusco I took a bus to Arequipa to meet Cydney (my roommate from Buenos Aires) for her birthday. We walked around town a bit, I bought and baked a cake, and we celebrated with a bunch of people at the Point hostel.